The Scottish phenom not too long ago visited Adam Ondra within the Czech Republic. The mission? To see whether or not he might climb something. Spoiler alert: He might.
Will Bosi flat-out crushes. He solidified his presence on the worldwide climbing stage final yr with repeats — and a primary ascent — of the toughest routes at Raven Tor, England, the place the climbing is heinous, to say the least. Since then, all he’s finished is put up mid-5.15 routes in Siurana, Spain, plus a slew of V12 and more durable boulder issues.
If you’re into arduous climbing however you don’t know who Bosi (pronounce it BOH-zee) is, these days are numbered. Only a few days in the past, the 23-year-old climber despatched each boulder downside (together with ones that didn’t exist till his arrival) at a crag on Adam Ondra’s doorstep.
Crushing Czech Climbs
On in the future in mid-April, Bosi flashed “Fénixovy Slzy” (8A+/V12) and “Charizard” (8B+/V14), flashed the primary ascent of “The Swirl King Sit” (8A+/V12), and made the primary ascent of “Bulbasaur” (8C/V15).
To say Bosi had a great climbing day is like saying Kobe Bryant had a “good” sport when he dropped 81 factors towards the Raptors in 2006.
The fact is that Bosi was near otherworldly — merely strolling as much as climbs few of us will ever take care of and summarily pulling them into the bottom. One after one other.
However when you ask Bosi, all he wished to do on the journey was see if he might pull onto the tall, steep block in any respect.
‘Thriller’ Fuels Bosi’s Climbing
“One of many issues I questioned earlier than the journey — I used to be virtually form of nervous — was ‘oh, I ponder if all of the grades are simply actually, actually arduous, and I’m going to return right here and never to have the ability to do something,” Bosi recalled, laughing. “So the thriller of it actually drew me right here.”
The “thriller” Bosi’s speaking about is rather a lot greater than numbers, although. Rising up in Edinburgh, he mentioned, wasn’t conducive to climbing outdoors. The closest crag was a pile of “actually, actually dangerous,” breakable rock that didn’t in any respect engender climbing, not to mention efficiency.
The one good cliffs had been a 2-hour drive away. So, the younger Bosi spent a variety of his time within the gymnasium. Envisioning sequences and linking strikes on plastic, he mentioned, gave him the physiologically artistic basis his climbing now reveals.
“It simply made sense to climb indoors and compete,” he mentioned. “I’ve not finished that many first ascents, and it’s solely within the final yr or in order that I’ve been actually entering into it. However it’s simply so fascinating as a result of indoors — regardless that figuring out the strikes remains to be complicated — you go outside, and you haven’t any concept whether or not one thing you’re taking a look at is even attainable.
“You possibly can have tons of of various foot and hand positions for any boulder or route! And it’s so thrilling to work out or discover the way it goes. And while you discover a sequence, and all of the sudden you know the way it really works, a large lightbulb goes off in your head. It feels superb.”
Bosi could have felt superb throughout his legendary day within the Czech Republic, and he clearly amazed Ondra. The extra apparent line on the leaning bloc goes straight up the face — “Charizard” goes out low and left, on holds that seem nonexistent within the cellphone footage.
As quickly as Bosi turns the nook onto simpler terrain on the ship, Ondra can solely snicker. Standing by, Bosi’s girlfriend mentioned (incredulously), “This child.”
This child, certainly. For Bosi’s half, he’s not caught up within the hype. He mentioned Ondra lived as much as his worldwide repute of psych and encouragement. The Scot additionally credited his inspiration for the journey to Ondra, in addition to prolific Czech first ascensionist Martin Stráník.
“Adam’s posted the odd picture or the odd video of this dwelling space of his [near Brno, Czech Republic],” he mentioned. “However there’s by no means been that a lot details about them. Once I was youthful, I’d watch this 5-second clip of ‘Vasil Vasil,’ and that was it. You recognize it’s going to be actually arduous, however you don’t know the rest about it. So it all the time had this thriller to me — I all the time wished to return take a look at all these loopy arduous strains by him and Stráník.”
What’s subsequent? In all chance, extra of the identical. Bosi’s headed north shortly to attempt to clear up the sandstone puzzles on the opposite facet of the Czech Republic. When the teenager will get there, and wherever he goes after that, we anticipate extra precocious first ascents.
“Simply attempting to make each transfer you possibly can consider work,” Bosi mentioned of his artistic strategy. (“Bulbasaur,” as an illustration, reverses “Charizard,” after which ascends “Fénixovy Slzy.”)
“As I’ve gotten older and gotten extra freedom, mountain climbing has undoubtedly been the largest motivator. The lightbulb second — it’s one thing that I’m actually eager to do much more of sooner or later.”